If the red batwing logo is present please proceed to 1e, if not go to 1d.
If they do they are produced between 1991-2002/3 and is thus part of the last 501 model produced in USA.
A common thing to look for in vintage Levi’s is the small single needle “V”-stitch running along the edge of the button fly. By the 1970s, the copper orange was the dominant thread color and by the end of the decade, the lemon yellow thread was phased out completely.
According to former Levi’s XX Head Designer Miles Johnson, the Two Horse brand made use of selvedge denim up until 1985.
To indicate their rarity (and value), Levi’s themselves bought a pair of c1890 501’s in 1997 which cost them approximately 25,000 dollars!
It’s safe to assume that today, nearly twenty years later, this value would have almost doubled.
From 1991 to 2002, Levi’s started producing a new 501 with care symbols and written instructions. Notice how much more yellow the arcuate stitching is on the earlier model as opposed to the copper-colored thread on the right.
All the above models will typically have a three-digit stamp on the waist button, indicating what factory made them. “555” indicates the famed Valencia Street facility. Image via e Bay Like with the vintage jackets, Levi’s made use of both copper orange and lemon yellow thread in their jeans.